| I
have done a lot of work on a lot of things over the years to improve the
old systems that were inherited from the Seahawk program. The flap control
system was one area I was not comfortable with and although it worked,
I did not feel that it was designed as well as if could be. It was also
fairly difficult to install. The system had some inherent slack in it and
was doing all it could do as it was designed. It was the only system we
had in those days and it was the system we supplied with our first kits.
It is a safe system, it is just not as positive and not nearly as easy
to install as the new system. I would not hesitate to fly the original
system if it is properly installed. As a matter of fact, I have flown that
system for over 1000 hours!
The new system is more expensive.
It includes a fairly difficult to build ratcheting flap handle mechanism
and a more comple |
bellcrank,
but the overall system from the builder’s standpoint is much simpler and
easier to install. It is more direct, and uses a push pull tube instead
of pulleys and cables. The flap handle has a push button on the top. When
the pilot pushes the button, he releases the ratchet and the handle is
free to move. When he releases the button, the ratchet pins engage in slots
that set the flaps at either 0, 10, or 20 degrees. The push pull tube is
located in the center console and does not pass through the baggage compartment
as the old cable system does. None of the components of the new system
are located on the top of the lower wing. The parts for the new system
are $350.00. These flap systems were included in all kits sold in 2000
and 2001. Kits sold before that or for Seahawk builders, these parts were
not included in the price and they must be purchased separately. |
| When wiring the Glass Goose, there are a few
things that need special consideration. The instrument panel being located
in the canopy poses a few problems. Not insurmountable, but nonetheless,
problems that must be dealt with if the installation is to be successful.
The first thing that must be dealt with is the fact that the wiring
from the panel to the rest of the plane must run along the sides of the
canopy. The sides of the canopy do not provide a lot of space for such
wiring and to look neat, some sort of a "conduit" or "gutter" must be installed
to contain the wires. By necessity, the wires are going to have to have
a "loop" of extra wire in the area of the hinges of the canopy which will
allow the canopy to open and close without straining the wires. These are
fairly simple considerations, which are not to difficult to handle. However
the next subject complicates them.
The unseen monster in this scenario is a little creature called "inductance".
Inductance is the transfer of electrical current or energy from a wire
conducting electricity to something else close to the wire. It is a basic
principle involved in the operation of electrical apparatus such as |
electric motors and certainly transformers.
Through inductance, electrical energy is actually transferred from one
tangible item to another without any physical connection. That’s why the
armature of an electric motor turns when the current to the windings of
the motor is turned on even though the armature is not physically connected
to the windings!
Inductance is a problem for the Glass Goose because of the fact that
the wires running to and from the instrument panel are by necessity running
parallel to each other for a distance of about 6 or 7 feet. This distance
is enough for the wires to pick up energy from each other through inductance.
Just as a for instance, this then causes the engine gauges to give incorrect
readings. In my own airplane, I can turn the radio on and the oil temperature
gauge will immediately jump 20 degrees! I can key the mike and all the
gauges jump!
The effects of inductance will vary with the amount of current being
carried by the wires involved and/or the kinds of signals the wires are
carrying. I have noted several variables in my own plane that you may want
to think about in your own. |
