Another thing. The stock tubes from Lycoming have a rolled ridge about ¼" in from the end that slips inside the rubber tube connectors to the crankcase. That ridge insures that the tube will not work it’s way out of the rubber tube once the hose clamps are tightened. Don’t play games with your life. If you have to buy the tool to install that ridge, buy it. You can probably get an A&P at your local facility to roll them for you and sometimes EAA chapters have tools that they loan to members and they might have one of those. If you have to, ship them to me and I will roll them for you.

Also, the tubing that Lycoming uses is higher strength than you will have available (5052-0 in ACS part # 03-39500). Allowed to vibrate, this tubing would be subject to fatigue and cracking. So, support it where possible and use a lot of tie wraps. Where 2 of the lines run along side each

Do not try to bend this tubing without a tubing bender. The one I have is made out of a kind of red plastic or nylon and will bend 3 different sizes of tubing. ¼", 5/16" & 3/8". They never wear out and they give you nice professional looking plumbing with no crimps. You can use them on all your fuel lines and the lines on the engine. The spring type benders are not acceptable and a waste of time and money. Unless you are bending tubing everyday for a living, always buy about 50% more tubing that you think you will need. I don’t think an explanation is necessary?

I have come to the opinion now that I am flying my plane again, that the oil drain back lines being anywhere close to the heat of the engine, or especially the exhaust manifold, can be a big part of the problem of high oil temperature. I will try to get out more details on the correct installation of these lines in the future, but in the mean time, give this a very high priority when preparing your engine for installation in your Glass Goose.

I installed a new air oil separator but it did no good. I decided before this season that I would pull the cylinders and see what I could find. It was especially baffling because the cylinders were all testing to have very good compression!
All in the high 70’s which would tend to indicate that the rings and cylinders were in good shape?

Upon removing the cylinders, I found that there was blow by indicated on the lands of some of the rings and piston groves. I also found that some of
the compression rings had not fully broken in and

Everything went together without complication and I spent a lot of extra time as I mentioned previously improving the baffling and the oil drain back lines. I had also discovered that the engine was contacting the airframe in several places where I hadn’t allowed enough clearance so I made corrections to those areas. I had known for some time that this plane was much noisier than my previous planes. The engine contacting the airframe was most of the explanation of that problem, but it was the sort of thing that you couldn’t see with the engine in the plane. As soon as I removed the engine the problem was very evident. I just tried a little too hard for "close cowling". But the biggest problem was at the plywood motor mount ears where the fuel pump was bumping on the ear.