Also, it is imperative that when reaming the ¼" holes in the tabs on the NG 4 & NG 5 out to the 7/16" required, that the location of the holes remain the same. For whatever reason, some folks have caused the holes to go "off center" when doing the reaming. This results in the alignment of the NG 4 and the NG 3 spring assembly to be thrown off. In one case, I received an NG 4 back that the builder had considerably "flattened" apparently in a vise while trying to ream out the holes. Not acceptable. We weld the tabs and their holes and the 5/16" bearing tube on the other end of the linkage in a jig that guarantees their correct alignment. The alignment of the 5/16" bearing tube and the two 7/16" holes must be absolutely parallel in both directions. If you do not feel capable of reaming these holes without damaging the part, then take it to a machine shop or send it back to us to get it done. We are not responsible for damaged parts.
Also, There has been one situation where the holes were wallowed out so poorly that the fit to the bushings was very sloppy and there was all kinds of slack after the parts were assembled. It is a good idea to take the parts that are to be fitted to the bushings to a machine shop and have them ream the holes to a proper fit. Once the holes are oversize, it’s too late. The is no reasonable way to fix them. Even though a 7/16 drill bit is a true 7/16 in size, a cheap drill press can have enough slop in it that the resulting hole drilled with that bit will be oversize. A professional can ream the holes with an adjustable reamer to a perfect fit.

IMPORTANT WING VENTING
When I finished N96GG, I could have sworn

I got the plane flying in "prime" without the finish coats. I would recommend this to everyone. A good paint job takes time and can really delay you getting in the air. It is easy to rush a paint job just to get in the air and botch up the paint in the process. If you get flying first and get the "get it flying" ants out of your pants, then you tend to take your time and do a better job on the paint.

Anyway, I flew the plane to Florida for the paint. I stayed and helped the guys there for about a week and then I returned to Texas. Shortly, I got a call from Guy Polacek the painter. He said that while trying to sand the lower wings to prepare for the paint, they appeared to be changing shape? The second he said it I knew what was wrong. I had forgotten to vent the outer portion beyond the BL 65 rib, or past the end of the fuel tank! He was working on the plane out in the sunshine outside the shop and the air trapped inside the wing was heating up and expanding and deforming the wing skins. On the upper wings, the air inside the wings was free to vent thru the holes where the strobe lights were mounted on the ends of the wings. The lower wings had no such passage and I had done such a good job of sealing and finishing that the air inside just couldn't get out! I instructed him to take a 1/16" drill bit and drill thru the aft shear web just outside of the BL 65 rib almost at the bottom of the shear web. In this location, if moisture should accumulate inside the wing for any reason, it is free to drain out since this is the low point of everything outboard of that spot.

When he did that, there was a rush of air as the pressure was relieved. Now the air is free to enter the wing when the temperatures drop and to flow out of the wing when the temperatures rise. 

In chapter 7 of the Glass Goose Plans, you should go to page 28 and make a note concerning putting this vent hole in the lower wing and the upper wing. We will probably send out a correction page, but you should make the note anyway just in case we don't.