We are using a new fuel filler unit that I like a lot better. It has an aluminum base with a fiberglass cap that has a lever that turns and folds down to lock the cap in place. It seals very well and is an aircraft quality cap. It can be recessed into the wing and contoured with micro to look very nice and can be drilled and fitted with a micro intake for venting the tank if one so desires. (I do.) Although I install the aluminum vent lines in the wings, I have found that I like the vented caps.
Another thing I like about the new units is that they don’t project as far down into the tank as the screw in caps furnished standard with the kit. This means that you can get more fuel in the tank. As a side note, if a person has forgotten to put the vent hole thru the spar as mentioned above and he has the old fuel fillers, he can kill 2 birds with one stone by cutting out the old fuel fillers and replacing them with the new units. While the old one is cut out, adequate access is available to reach inside the tank with a right angle drill and drill the vent hole. Normally the exposed foam in the vent hole is sealed with micro when installed during normal construction, but just painting the hole with a wet flox mixture on a Q’ Tip under this circumstance will suffice.

Mixing Dexter-Hysol
While closing out the wings, one source of frustration is not knowing exactly how to handle the mixing and application of the Dexter Hysol bonding agent we use to do the final bonding of the spars and ribs to the upper skin. This stuff is an unbelievably strong bonding material that is

One of the unknowns is; How much to mix up? The numbers I am about to give you are based on a very well fitted spar and ribs. The upper skin should rest directly ON the spar when -pressed down and there should be no great amount of resistance to the spar contacting the skin and spar cap (carbon fiber). With the upper skin resting on the fully prepared lower skin (spar & ribs installed) you should be able to go down it and pop it with the side of your fist and hear or feel the skin contact the spar.

Just so it will go down and in contact at any spot you happen to push it down. It doesn’t have to be contacting the whole thing at one time. We have found that just doesn’t seem to happen as it would seem it should considering how the spar is installed, but it just doesn’t! In fact, that was exactly why the Seahawk wings had the problems they had. People assumed the skin went down and into contact with the spar automatically when in fact it didn’t!

Another area of concern while closing the wing has always been getting the bonding material on in a uniform manner. Originally, the Seahawk wings were closed out using epoxy and flox mixed to a butter consistency. Whether you applied the mixture with a brush or a squeegee, it was impossible to get it on in a uniform manner. There were always lumps and bumps and dips. We all trusted the squeeze-out process to even everything out.